1. Why won’t my rabbit allow me to hold or pet it?

Rabbits often don’t like to be picked up because it’s not a natural experience for them. Unlike dogs, cats and other animals, rabbits don’t pick up and carry their young. In fact, rabbits would normally associate this type of movement with an attack from a predator.

2. How long do rabbits live?

Generally speaking, the average lifespan of a rabbit is eight to ten years. A range of issues contribute to a rabbit’s life expectancy, however, including:
  • In-breeding
  • Diet
  • Care
  • Living environment
  • The rabbit’s breed

Unethical breeders don’t keep records of their rabbits’ pedigree and breeding history, so always insist on seeing these documents before agreeing to buy one.

3. How can I stop rabbits from chewing wires and cardboard?

Rabbit-proof your home by lifting wires out of reach, along with anything else that’s fragile or potentially dangerous. If you can’t raise wires, coat them in Tabasco chili sauce — as rabbits hate it!

4. At what age can a baby rabbit be rehomed? And why?

A baby rabbit should be at least two months old before it’s taken away from its mother. In most cases, this would mean the rabbit would be bigger than the palm of your hand. A Netherland Dwarf is the smallest breed, and this would weigh approximately 1.2kg at that age.

The reason for the two-month rule is simple: baby rabbits need milk from their mother for six to seven weeks after being born. Weaning a rabbit too early can have devastating effects on its health, including a slow growth rate, immuno-deficiency issues, digestive problems and stress.

When combined, these ailments can lead to a disease called coccidiosis — which causes diarrhoea and, potentially, death within 48 hours.

5. Does my rabbit need to live off a diet of only carrots?

No, this is a common misconception. A healthy rabbit should enjoy a diet of hay and specially formulated pellets. Carrots are fine, and rabbits love them — but they should only be given as a treat. This is because they’re high in sugar and can cause obesity. Also, a diet that’s high in sugar can cause a rabbit to shed its fur throughout the year.

6. Can my rabbit survive on an all-hay diet or a diet without many pellets?

The fibre your rabbit gets from hay is crucial to its development and digestive system. But hay contains very few nutrients. All of the main minerals and vitamins your rabbit needs to live an active, healthy life are contained in specially formulated rabbit pellets.

As a simple rule of thumb, aim to give your rabbit around 5% of its body weight in food every day. The majority of that should come from pellets, which contain protein, essential fats, vitamins, minerals and multiple energy sources.

7. Should I neuter/spay my rabbit?

Female rabbits (does) are spayed, and male rabbits (bucks) are neutered. When a doe is spayed, her ovaries and uterus are removed. And when a buck is neutered, its testicles and associated structures are removed. This decision is up to you. If your rabbit is showing signs of aggressive, antisocial behaviour, spaying or neutering it might solve these issues. This surgery obviously means your rabbit won’t be able to reproduce, but it could stop unwanted behaviours such as spraying urine and becoming aggressive to you and other rabbits.

8. Why do female rabbits sometimes hump male rabbits?

This is common and completely natural. When a doe humps a buck, it’s demonstrating its power; it’s telling the other rabbits that it’s an alpha and that this is its territory. This behavior is also a sign that the doe is on heat and ready to mate。

9. At what age should I start feeding my rabbit supplements?

Although rabbits regularly groom and wash themselves, it’s important to maintain a good grooming routine to ensure their fur stays in perfect condition.

We recommend that you start feeding your rabbit nutritional supplements from the age of six months — when it’s considered a fully grown adult.

10. How much pellet food should I feed my rabbit?

Aim for about three to five percent of your rabbit’s body weight. For example, a 1kg rabbit would require between 30g and 50g of pellets per day.

But it’s not always as simple as that. Other factors that affect a rabbit’s recommended daily food intake include:
  • Health — some sick rabbits eat less, particularly if they’re struggling with a digestive problem.
  • Activity levels — the more your rabbit moves, the more calories it will need.
  • The type of pellet — cheaper, inferior food pellets are packed with fillers and substances that can’t be fully digested. That’s why you should always give your rabbit a high-quality pellet that’s packed with digestible goodness.
  • Environmental issues — a relaxed, comfortable environment encourages a rabbit to eat healthily.
  • Biological issues — growing or nursing rabbits need more energy from pellets to sustain growth.

11. How do I know if my rabbit is underweight or overweight?

Unfortunately, there’s no definitive answer to this question. The ideal weight for a rabbit depends on its breed. Different breeds have different target weight ranges. As your rabbit’s owner, you’ll know what constitutes a healthy weight for your pet.

But you can perform a quick check by putting your hand underneath the rabbit’s belly. If it feels bony, it’s probably underweight. If it feels soft and bloated, it may be overweight. Rabbits carrying excess weight often have trouble cleaning cecotropes from their bottom, so this is something you should always look for.

12. My rabbit’s upper and lower jaws are misaligned. What’s wrong?

When a rabbit’s lower and upper jaws are misaligned, the most common cause is a dental issue known as malocclusion. The teeth on both jaws don’t wear down as they should, so they become elongated over time. This condition usually affects the incisors at the front of the mouth and the molars at the back.

A vet will check for this condition by lifting up the rabbit’s lips. In a healthy rabbit, the upper incisors overlap the lower incisors. If this situation is reversed, the rabbit’s teeth may become elongated over time. An X-ray is usually required to formally diagnose the condition.

In some rabbits, the cause of malocclusion is genetic. But external factors such as previous injuries or incessant biting/chewing can be the root cause.

If your rabbit is diagnosed with this condition, there are several courses of action a vet can take. Some vets might recommend a diet of high-fibre hay, but this isn’t a reliable treatment. You might be advised to get your rabbit’s teeth filed. In particularly severe cases, a vet might recommend removal of the offending teeth

13. Should I give my rabbit a chewing block to wear down its teeth?

The answer to this question is an unequivocal NO. A rabbit’s teeth grow for the entirety of its life. But if the jaws are lined, the teeth will wear down naturally over time.

Never feed your rabbit chewing blocks or stone, as they don’t deliver sufficient vitamins and minerals. And too much of these harmful substances can cause health issues, including kidney and bladder stones.

14. What type of hay should I feed my rabbit?

We recommend feeding your rabbit two types of hay:
  • A high-fibre, low-protein hay such as orchard grass, meadow hay, oat hay and timothy hay. These high-quality foods promote good digestive health, and they’re suitable for all breeds and ages.
  • A high-protein, high-calcium hay such as alfalfa hay. This provides the protein and calcium needed for good muscle and bone health. And it’s also great at stimulating a rabbit’s appetite. In most situations, a combination of both these hay varieties delivers the best results. A skinny baby rabbit, for example, will benefit from a mix of alfalfa hay and high-fibre hay. But a healthy baby rabbit only requires the high-fibre hay.

We’re always here to answer any questions you might have about the best diet for your rabbits.

15. Why does my rabbit’s hair fall out throughout the year?

This usually happens for one of two reasons: lifestyle issues or health issues:
  • A diet overly rich in carbohydrates
  • Too many treats containing processed sugars
  • Dehydration
  • Over-exposure to hot and humid weather
  • Fur mites

Thankfully, there are some very effective treatments and lifestyle changes you can implement to alleviate the problem of excessive hair loss:
  • Change to corn-free and organic rabbit foods
  • Stop feeding high-sugar treats to your rabbit
  • Keep your rabbit well hydrated with lots of fresh water — particularly during hot spells
  • Give your rabbit lots of cool shade to relax in
  • Regularly apply anti-parasite treatments — available as creams, tablets and injections

16. What ingredients are bad for my rabbit’s health?

Just like humans, rabbits need a balanced diet, rich in essential nutrients. Among the most nutritious are:
  • Whole corn/maize
  • Cereals
  • Food mixes — beans, peas, dried fruits, nuts and seeds
  • Colouring agents
  • Artificial additives such as flavourings

While sunflower seeds dried fruits and rolled oats are good for conditioning your rabbit, they should only ever be given in small amounts — and never as a main component of your rabbit’s diet

17. How much pellet food should I be feeding my rabbit every day?

Generally speaking, a rabbit needs around five percent of its body weight in food. Let’s say your rabbit weighs a kilo. This would mean you’d need to provide 50g of healthy, nutritious rabbit pellets per day. But it’s equally important to ensure your rabbit has access to all the high-fibre grass hay it wants.

It’s also important to remember that pregnant rabbits and babies need extra calories for growth.

18. My rabbit sometimes stops eating. Why?

In most cases, this is nothing to worry about. Think about how you eat. There will be days when you simply don’t feel like eating a lot, and there’ll be days when you might eat too much.

The potentially serious reasons for rabbits not eating are:
  • Dehydration
  • A dirty or mouldy bowl (dangerous)
  • A change of food (a different smell or taste)
  • Illness

There are a few relatively simple solutions to this problem:
  • Ensure there’s a supply of fresh water that can be easily accessed
  • Don’t overfill feeding bowls, as food can become mouldy very quickly in hot and humid climates
  • Try different food pellets until you find something your rabbit likes — and stick with it
  • Adds a few fruits and green vegetables to your rabbit’s diet, as this often stimulates the appetite
  • Provide a cool, calm environment with plenty of ventilation

19. My rabbit sometimes stops eating. Why?

In most cases, this is nothing to worry about. Think about how you eat. There will be days when you simply don’t feel like eating a lot, and there’ll be days when you might eat too much.

The potentially serious reasons for rabbits not eating are:
  • Dehydration
  • A dirty or mouldy bowl (dangerous)
  • A change of food (a different smell or taste)
  • Illness

There are a few relatively simple solutions to this problem:
  • Ensure there’s a supply of fresh water that can be easily accessed
  • Don’t overfill feeding bowls, as food can become mouldy very quickly in hot and humid climates
  • Try different food pellets until you find something your rabbit likes — and stick with it
  • Adds a few fruits and green vegetables to your rabbit’s diet, as this often stimulates the appetite
  • Provide a cool, calm environment with plenty of ventilation

20. How many ribs does a rabbit have? And is a bigger rib cage better than a small one?

Rabbits have 12 ribs. And, generally speaking, larger rib cages are more desirable, as they provide more room for breathing and the healthy development of lungs. When you’re looking for a rabbit, make sure you check the rib cage. The bigger, the better!

21. Is sugary food good for my rabbit?

The simple answer is no, sugary foods aren’t good for rabbits. Unfortunately, a lot of owners feed their rabbits sugary foods they believe to be healthy, including honey sticks, breads, sweet supplements, colourful kibble and dried fruits.

Sugary foods can cause microbe imbalances in the gut, which can lead to bloating, excess gas and a range of related digestive problems.

Giving your rabbit sugary food all the time will make it become a picky eater over time. There may come a time when your rabbit only wants sugary foods, and that can lead to over-stimulation of the hair follicles and year-round shedding.

If you want to give your rabbit sugary foods, make sure they’re just occasional treats. And stick to natural sources of sugar such as pineapples, bananas and apples

22. Why is my rabbit suddenly drinking less water?

There are several reasons why a rabbit might suddenly drink less water each day:
  • The drinking nozzle or spout isn’t working properly
  • A dirty water container
  • Foul-smelling or tasting water
  • Illness
  • A diet rich in foods with a high water content
  • Stress from bad handling and environmental issues

Fortunately, there are some relatively simple solutions to this problem:
  • Check your rabbit’s drinking nozzle or spout is working properly every day
  • Scrub your rabbit’s water container regularly to prevent algae growth
  • Replace the water daily
  • Add ice cubes to your rabbit’s water during hot spells
  • Create a quieter, more relaxing environment for your rabbit
  • Don’t add sugar or flavourings to your rabbit’s water

23. What are the most common symptoms of illness and pain in rabbits?

There are a few tell-tale signs of illness and pain in rabbits:
  • Sudden changes in behavior
  • Poor posture when sitting
  • Slow and laboured movements
  • A sudden loss or reduction in appetite
  • Grinding teeth
  • Suddenly unresponsive to surroundings
  • Badly maintained fur and/or soiled hindquarters
  • A loss of balance
  • Noticeable weight loss
  • Pressing of the head against the corner of the cage
  • Less frequent bowel movements and pees

24. How many teeth does a healthy rabbit have?

Healthy rabbit should have 28 teeth: 12 molars, 10 premolars, two incisors in the bottom jaw and four incisors in the top jaw.

25. What plants and substances are toxic to rabbits:

Unfortunately, there are many plants, foods and substances that are toxic to rabbits:
  • Agave leaves
  • Amaryllis bulbs
  • Azalea
  • Bird of paradise seeds
  • Bloodroot
  • Buttercup leaves
  • Block locust seeds
  • Boxwood leaves and twigs
  • Buckeye seeds
  • Buckthorn berries
  • Caladium
  • Calla
  • Castor bean seeds
  • Christmas rose
  • Coneflower
  • Crown of thorns
  • Daffodils
  • Delphinium
  • Dumb cane
  • Eggplant
  • Elderberry unripe berries
  • Elephant ear
  • Flowering tobacco
  • Foxglove
  • Holly berries
  • Horse chestnut nuts
  • Hyacinth
  • Iris
  • Boston and English ivy berries
  • Jack in the pulpit
  • Jerusalem cherry
  • Jimson weed
  • Jonquil
  • Lantana
  • Larkspur
  • Lily of the valley
  • Lupine
  • Mayapple
  • Mistletoe berries
  • Morning glory seeds
  • Mustard root
  • Narcissus
  • Nicotine
  • Nightshade
  • Oleander
  • Philodendron
  • Poison hemlock
  • Poison ivy
  • Green potato
  • Privet berries
  • Ranunculus
  • Rhododendron
  • Rhubarb leaf
  • Rosary pea seeds
  • Seeds of most fruits
  • Snow on the mountain
  • Sweet pea seeds
  • Sweet potato vine
  • Skunk cabbage
  • Tansy
  • Tomato leaves
  • Tulip
  • Virginia creeper berries
  • Water hemlock
  • Wisteria
  • Yew berries

26. Do you have several rabbit breeds to choose from? And are they available for sale all the time?

The simple answer is no, we don’t have lots of rabbits for sale at any one time. That’s because we’re serious about breeding pedigree rabbit breeds humanely. We take the time to breed and raise rabbits with good genetics, healthy coloring and good physical traits. All our beautiful rabbits are bred according to ARBA’s Standard of Perfection guidelines. As a result of our strict breeding requirements, our supply of rabbits is always limited.

27. What do you mean by “pure-bred pedigree rabbits”?

The offspring of two pedigree rabbits will have all the main physical characteristics of their particular breed. While there may be small differences, the main traits always remain the same.

Non-pedigree rabbits are those that have mixed ancestry — a mother and a father that are either different breeds or cross-breeds. Their physical characteristics will be different and highly unpredictable.

A pedigree rabbit should have a breeding record that goes back at least three generations. Details of the breed, weight, colour and competition-winning credentials of a rabbit’s parents, grandparents and great grandparents should always be included in official pedigree documentation.

28. Is a rabbit a suitable pet for children?

A rabbit can make a great pet for a child, but only when supervised by a responsible adult Ultimately, it’s the parent’s responsibility to ensure the rabbit is fed and cared for properly.

29. What does the average rabbit cost?

It’s hard to say, as prices depend on a range of issues such as their breed, their health and their history. Generally speaking, a healthy rabbit costs anything between RM 680 and RM 1500. While prices are often dictated by ARBA’s Standard of Perfection, we believe that every rabbit is a masterpiece.

30. Should I administer anti-coccidiosis medicine to my rabbit?

Absolutely not. You should seek professional advice from a vet who specialises in rabbits and the diseases they suffer from.

31. Can I feed my adult rabbit alfalfa-based food?

Yes, as alfalfa-based rabbit foods are rich in protein and help with the growth of healthy fur and skin. Mix alfalfa-based foods with unlimited quantities of high-fibre hay for the perfect combination of protein and nutrients

32. Which should I choose? Organic, Garden Select or Oxbow Essentials pellets?

All three are good sources of essential vitamins and nutrients. Oxbow in particular is a trusted and reputable rabbit food supplier. Your rabbit may have its own preference, however, so choose the most popular brand.

33. Can you tell which hay and treats my rabbit will like?

No, as every rabbit has its own preferences in terms of food. If your rabbit isn’t eating the food or treats you’re providing, try a healthy alternative.


1. How often should I get my rabbit / guinea pig groomed?

This depends on the breed. A rabbit / guinea pig with a normal or short coat should ideally be groomed a minimum of every two months. A rabbit / guinea pig with a long coat should be groomed at least once a month to remove matted fur.

2. Are you able to groom other pets besides small animal?

Unfortunately, no. While most groomers offer an extensive range of pet grooming services, we focus solely on small animals. Additionally, because small animals tend to get nervous and stressed more easily than other animals, we wanted to place them in a stress-free environment.

3. Rescheduling appointments

Please aim to arrive on time to your appointment, as each pet is allocated their time slot. If you know you’re going to be late, or need to cancel your appointment, please call us as soon as possible. We try to accommodate late arrivals as much as possible, but during busy days rescheduling may be required.

4. Do you have any before/after examples?

Of course! You can check them out at The Gallery or simply contact us for more examples.

5. Can I cut my rabbit's long fur to make it shorter?

We don’t recommend this because the hair will simply grow back to its natural length. Some rabbits have long coats — it’s a genetic characteristic. If you’re worried that your rabbit’s fur is seriously matted, you can shave it, and it will grow back to its natural length in just a month or two.

6. In which coat type does my rabbit/guinea pig belong?

That's the most common question we get. To help you better understand, we've compiled a collection of photos in The Gallery. In case you're still unsure about which coat type your pet belongs to, please do not hesitate to contact us and a member of our team will assist you.

7. How long will the groom take?

This is dependent on each pet, their coat condition, age, breed, temperament, and style chosen. Our main aim is to make your pets’ experience as enjoyable as possible, and your pet will always come first. The initial consultation with you and your pet will be key to determining the length of the groom. For basic grooming on average, we say 15-30 minutes. For full grooming, it’ll take about 1-2 hours. We recommend checking with our grooming experts to get a more accurate estimate.

8. Do you provide medical advice?

The only person who can provide BASIC medical advice is Mr.Beh. In addition, we'd like to emphasize that we're not a vet clinic. Therefore, if you still have doubts or your pet's condition doesn't improve, we strongly advise that you immediately contact your local veterinarian.

9. Why do rabbits need grooming?

Although rabbits regularly groom and wash themselves, it’s important to maintain a good grooming routine to ensure their fur stays in perfect condition.

Rabbits swallow a lot of fur when they groom themselves and, unlike cats, they’re unable to get it out of their system as hairballs. If they swallow too much, it can cause their gut to slow down, which can be dangerous. Regular brushing helps to remove loose fur and minimise the amount they swallow.

10. How do I schedule an appointment if I have more than one pet to groom?

Each slot is limited to one pet. For instance, if you wish to send two rabbits for grooming, you will have to select two slots. Therefore, you will have to make the booking twice.


1. What makes us different?

We believe many things make us unique. Our passion for pets, our cleanliness, our services and facilities, the love and care we give to your pets are always our number 1 priority. We want you to be able to leave your pet in total confidence that they will be safe, secure, happy, and loved while you are away with dedicated staff members who have been trained by us to give you peace of mind so you can truly enjoy your holiday. We even send daily videos to you so you can keep an eye on what they are up to!

2. My pet is on a special diet. Is this a problem?

Not at all. If you prefer to feed your pet with your own food or supplements, you can bring them with you on the day of check-in.

3. Can I bring my pet own things?

Yes, absolutely. If it has some scent of home that will help them settle down more quickly, why not! Please note we cannot guarantee the toys/items safe return should your pet damage them during their stay.

4. When do I need to book?

We will always try our best to accommodate your pet, but we do get very busy with our excellent reputation especially in holiday seasons, so please books as far in advance as you can to avoid disappointment.

5. Can our pets stay together?

Our standard cages and Oxbow Habitat with Play Yard are of generous sizes and can accommodate up to 2 pets from the same family staying together. There is also a discount for pets sharing.

6. Is there someone to look after my pet in the evenings when you are closed?

No. Because small animals do not require the same level of supervision and care as cats and dogs, we do not ask our staff to live on-site 24 hours a day. However, our staff makes sure that all pets have been fed and cared for before they return home.

7. What is the check in/out times?

Check in from 11AM, Check out by 6PM.

8. How much time will my pet be able to spend playing?

All pets will receive at least 30-minute play/exercise session per day.